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Stepping into Larry’s China at the Ambassador is like stepping a decade back, into another city. Chosen in haste, out of expediency because of its proximity to the India International Centre, it turns out to be the right setting for Amit Chaudhuri. It could be a respectable Chinese restaurant from either Bombay in the 1990s or Calcutta in the early 2000s, both cities that the writer knows well.

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